Where to Drink Kölsch in Cologne (Köln), Germany & What You Need to Know

As a German beer lover, drinking Kölsch in Cologne has long topped my beer bucket list. You see, each German beer style has its home–the city or region where it’s brewed (and most likely originated) and therefore rules all. For Kölsch, that’s the city of Köln, Germany (also known as Cologne).

Kölsh has been one of my favorite beer styles forever, but I’d never had it at the source. Not only is it delicious, it’s also served in (what I believe to be) the superior way to serve beer that you can’t find anywhere else. Read on for more on this and the other important things you need to know for drinking Kölsch in Cologne.

I finally made it to the city of Cologne in April 2024 but I only had one day here. And what did I do with that one day? I filled it with as many Kölsch breweries as I could, of course! In this post I’ll share with you the five Kölsch pubs I visited plus the other popular favorites I couldn’t quite squeeze in this time. Prost!

What is Kölsch beer?

When talking about beer, the term Kölsch refers to the light, bright, crisp style of beer brewed in Köln, Germany (Cologne). It typically has an ABV somewhere between 4.4% and 5.2% and is incredibly drinkable.

Fun fact: On the flip side of that you have altbier in Düsseldorf, another lager/ale hybrid, but in the other direction.

Also read: Everything to Know About the Beer at Oktoberfest in Munich

Kölsch beer laws

Because this is Germany, there are laws determining the brewing and naming of Kölsch beers to ensure only the highest quality.

For starters, all beer brewed in Germany must adhere to the Reinheitsgebot. This beer purity law states that all beer brewed in Germany must contain only four ingredients: hops, water, yeast, and malt.

Second, (as of 1997) the term “Kölsch” is a “protected geographical indication” which means that only beer brewed within a 31-mile radius of Cologne can be called “Kölsch.” (Which is why “Kolsch” beers in the US actually say “Kolsch-style.”

Third, thanks to the Kölsch Konvention of 1986, this is one of the most strictly defined styles of beer in Germany. This document mandates that, to be a Kölsch, the beer must be a “pale, well-attenuated, hoppy, and clear top-fermented” brew.

Also read: All About Airbräu, Munich’s Airport Brewery & Beer Garden

American Kölsch options

That said, tons of American breweries have produced what they call a “Kölsch,” and I’ve tried just about all of them. Spoiler alert: They almost never taste like a true Kölsch. However, here in Boston, I’ve been able to find some good replacements from the Von Trapp brewery out of Vermont (yes, those Von Trapps), Notch Brewing in Cambridge, and Democracy Brewing near Boston Common.

How to drink Kölsch in Cologne

Drinking Kölsch in Cologne isn’t as straightforward as ordering a beer everywhere else on planet Earth. It’s not difficult, but there are a few things you should know first so you’re not caught off-guard.

How Kölsch beer is served

Just like every city/region in Germany has its own beer style, so does every type of beer have its own defined vessel from which to drink it. In Cologne, Kölsch beer is served in a 0.2-L glass called a stange (pronounced like shtong-uh). Stanges are simple, cylindrical, and made from thin glass that holds about 6.7 ounces of beer.

Serving Kölsch in these small glasses guarantees you’ll never have to drink warm Kölsch, even if you’re as slow a drinker as I am. And to that, we toast!

What to expect at a Cologne brauhaus

Sit down and order a Kölsch as you would any other beer. A Kölsch server (called a Köbes) roams around the brauhaus armed with a round tray that traditionally holds 11 stanges of beer. This tray is called a Kranz.

When he sees your glass is getting low, he’ll drop off another stange of Kölsch and take the empty one. He keeps a running tally of how many you’ve consumed by marking a notch on your coaster. This process continues until you signify that you don’t want any more beer by placing your coaster on top of your glass.

You never have to suffer through warm beer and you never have to wait to order another one. So, I’ll say it again: Drinking Kölsch in Cologne is the superior way to drink beer.

About those Köbes

Köbes (pronounced like kuhr-buhss) is the term given to the traditional beer servers in Cologne’s brewhouses. Before I visited Cologne, I’d read so much about how rude and off-putting Cologne’s köbes could be and how that’s just the way it is. Some may say the word I’m looking for is “cheeky.”

However, with the exception of just one of the five breweries I visited, I found the servers to be nothing but gracious, friendly, and overall pleasant. Maybe I got lucky? Maybe the köbes are going soft? Who knows. In case you’ve read the same thing, I’m telling you this so you’ll know that may not always be the case!

You might like: How NOT to Take a Spaten Brewery Tour

Where to drink Kölsch in Cologne

Now that you’ve made it to beautiful and historic Köln, Germany, here’s a list of where you can drink Kölsch in Cologne to check that off your beer bucket list.

Map of where to drink Kölsch in Cologne

This map contains all the Kölsch brauhauses I mention in this post. To save this map: Click on the star ⭑ next to the map’s title to save in your Google Maps. To use this map: When you get to Cologne, open Google Maps on your phone, click “Saved” at the bottom, then click “Maps.”

1. Gaffel am Dom

Gaffel am Dom is my personal favorite place to drink Kölsch in Cologne. This huge brauhaus is located right across the street from the famous Cologne cathedral (the 3^rd tallest church in the world) and the city’s main train station. You can’t beat the location; you may even be able to pop in here for a Kölsch during a train layover.

I’ve had Gaffel Kölsch plenty of times throughout my beer-drinking life but having it here at the source was something new and wonderful! The large bar/restaurant has a fun atmosphere and the servers are friendly. (At least, mine was!)

The food is amazing (some of the best and most unique currywurst I’ve ever had) and the Kölsch is simply fantastic. The stained glass ceiling and dark wood certainly set the tone for what our day exploring the city would be like.

More info here: gaffelamdom.de

2. Peters Brauhaus

Peters Brauhaus is another personal favorite spot to drink Kölsch in Cologne. This one is located smack in the center of Köln’s old town and super easy to find, mostly because it’s HUGE. Despite its size, Peters feels cozy and it’s always packed with both tourists and locals alike. Definitely a crowd favorite.

Besides the fact that the Kölsch here was the best I had in Cologne, I also love that it’s not one of the internationally recognized brands so I felt I was experiencing something rare and special. The atmosphere is jovial; the food is good; and the service was fantastic. Fast, friendly, and no frills.

More info here: peters-brauhaus.de

3. Brauerei zur Malzmühle

My next favorite spot is Brauerei zur Malzmühle; in fact, I really liked it here. The Mühlen Kölsch was great, the building was cozy with a historic feeling, and this place had the friendliest service of all the brauhauses we visited.

They also had some delicious food. We didn’t eat any full meals here (thanks to the large lunch at Gaffel) but I did have their Sößkrom us Malzbier which translates to “Malt beer mousse with crunch.”It sounded too weird not to try, and it was so good!

More info here: brauereizurmalzmuehle.de

4. Früh am Dom

Früh am Dom is probably the most internationally recognizable Kölsch out of Cologne but its brauhaus felt as local as the rest of them. (Except for the large gift shop next door; but you can pick up your own stange and kranz here!)

Früh am Dom is another super huge place to drink Kölsch in Cologne and the building is comprised of several different rooms and bars. (Finding the bathroom is an adventure.) Like the others, they do have outdoor seating too.

The Kölsch here is good–nothing special I feel, but still a great beer. The service here fit the description I’d read about service in Cologne previously–not friendly but not rude either. I guess the word I’m looking for is “indifferent.” We were handed our beers with the enthusiasm of someone putting their dirty dishes in the sink.

The atmosphere here was also not my favorite. It was super dark and gloomy feeling, not very cozy or inviting, and the layout was confusing. We stood at one of the bars and had just a couple of stange.   

More info here: www.frueh-am-dom.de/brauhaus.html

5. Brauerei Pfaffen

Brauerei Pfaffen was definitely my least favorite brauhaus of the day, but I’d love to give them the benefit of the doubt. If you go here, please let me know how your experience was!

This was the only brauhaus we visited in Cologne where getting another stange of Kölsch was like trying to get the dinner bill in France. (In other words, like pulling teeth!) We couldn’t get anyone’s attention to bring us another and we basically just sat there empty-glassed to the point of irritation. Needless to say, the service here was critically lacking.

Besides that, I have in my notes that the Kölsch here was actually “gross.” Maybe it was my glass? Maybe it was a bad batch? I don’t know, but I guess I should be thankful they never brought me another.

The location is great and they have outdoor seating. It was just not an inviting place the day we went. A do-over is needed for sure.

More info here: zum-pfaffen.koeln

6. Reissdorf am Hahnentor

Like Früh, Reissdorf is another readily available Kölsch here in the United States. This is the one I’ve had the most here, so I skipped this brauhaus in favor of others I’ve never had. (I could only fit so many into one day, sadly.)

From my experience, Reissdorf Kölsch is delicious, and I’m sure it’s only better here at the source. However, its location outside the city center makes it slightly more of a challenge to get to than the five mentioned above and several others mentioned below. But, you can find it at bars around Cologne if you want to try one.

More info here: reissdorf-amhahnentor.de

11. Brewery Päffgen

Brewery Päffgen is not to be confused with Brauerei Pfaffen (#5 on this list) even though Pfaffen is an offshoot of Päffgen that was founded by Max Päffgen. Yeah it’s confusing, so just know these are two different family-owned places.

Best Kölsch beer in Cologne?

So, what’s the best Kölsch beer in Cologne? Well, obviously that’s a subjective question and someone else may feel differently, but… For me, it’s the Kölsch from Peter’s Brauhaus with Gaffel pretty much tied.

Those are the three that I chose for you, but there are tons more options. It’s worth checking out the other Cologne brewery tours on Viator and Get Your Guide in case they have dates/times that work better with your schedule, etc.

Like this post? Have more questions about drinking Kölsch in Cologne? Let me know in the comments below. Have fun in Germany!

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